Switch power jumpers:

Switches have a break in the rail continuity at the frog due the cut in the rails.  On the Aristocraft #6 switches, a small gauge stainless steel wire is used to feed power past the frog and provide electrical continuity.  In low amperage situations this may be acceptable, but if you plan to run high amp consists such as long fully light passenger trains, you will want a more substantial jumper wire to limit voltage drop.  (Note: if you are running power feeder wires to other points on the oval/layout, this jumper may not really be necessary.)


I chose to make my own and started with this 12 gauge outdoor low voltage wire. (see Wire type for more info)

I next cut the wire in 39" long sections, stripped the insulation on the end of the wire and crimped on a ring terminal connector. (see Connection to the track for more info)

Example of connection to Split-Jaw clamp (with a different type of ring terminal)


You may need to get a longer screw for those you are planning to connect your ring terminal in this manner.  A longer 3/4" version of this screw (6-32 socket cap) can be purchased online or at your local hardware store (Ace Hardware)  If you want to connect the terminal on the back side on the end of the screw, you will need a nut such as the Stainless steel Hillman's pictured below (also purchased from Ace Hardware).


To protect the wire and connections from moisture, I thoroughly soldered the terminal connections and wires leading back into the insulation. 


Here are where the jumper wires should be connected.  (green to green, orange to orange)



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